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WATCH REVIEW Patek Philippe Calatrava 5120

Editor's opinion
79 / 100
According to the adverts: “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation” – but is this really true or just marketing talk ?
Straight to the Point

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5120

Ref.: 5120 J or jaune
$13,500.00 US retail price May 13th, 2010
Pros
  • a timeless and elegant watch
  • a great movement
Cons
  • a timepiece for connoisseurs
  • a case diameter that might not seduce everybody
Technical specifications
Brand Patek Philippe
Model name
Calatrava 5120
Reference
5120 J or jaune
Case material
Yellow gold
Case diameter (without crown)
35 mm
Case diameter (crown included)
36 mm
Movement type
Automatic
Caliber
240
Base Caliber
240
Functions
Hour
Minute
Crystal
Sapphire glass
Power reserve
48h
Transparent back
Yes
Lug width
18 mm
Length from lug to lug
40 mm
Case thickness
7 mm
Clasp type
Pin buckle
Clasp material
Yellow gold
Total weight
45 grammes
Retail price USA at May 13th, 2010
13,500.00 $
Editor's opinion 79/100
Comfort (/15) 15
Movement (/20) 16
Movement Optimisation / Garnishment (/5) 5
Ease of handling and adjustment (/5) 5
Movement control proceeded by the Manufacture / horlogical awards (/3) 3
Power reserve (/2) 1
Complications (/5) 2
Finishing (/20) 17
Dial finishing (/6) 6
Case finishing (/6) 6
Quality of garnishment / caseback engraving quality (/2) 2
Crystal quality (/4) 1
Clasp finishing (inner and extern) (/2) 2
Functionality (/20) 11
Diurnal legibility (/5) 5
Night legibility (/4) 0
Water resistance (/3) 0
Strap : ease of size adjustment + ease of substitution (/4) 3
Clasp : quality and safety (/4) 3
Additional items (/10) 5
Limited edition (/3) 0
Watch delivered with several straps (/2) 0
Quality of the watch box (/1) 1
Portability with shirtsleeves buttoned (/2) 2
Goodies included (/1) 1
Understandability of the brochure (/1) 1
Value for money (/15) 15
  • When to wear it ?
  • Listening to some opera melody !
  • Patek Philippe Calatrava 5120
    Overview

    With this Calatrava 5120 around my wrist, I try to get to the bottom of it !

    The 35mm diameter is out of fashion, which means nothing really – this watch isn’t in fashion – the yellow gold isn’t stylish either : this is an eternally classic watch industry metal.

    Slimline, this is one of the thinnest self-winding watches.
    The bend of the lugs is such that the silhouette is not flat at all but well presented and natural on the wrist without being too alluring.
    The Calatrava cross on the crown ? Perfect !

     

    A sober dial

    A simple white enamel dial, without unnecessary literature, with black roman numerals, which go around the right way (no clumsy reversal between 4 and 8).
    And the black hour, minute and…

    – Wait ! they’ve forgotten the second hand ??

    – No of course not ! We’re talking about Patek Philippe :under the paint there is gold !
    Counting the seconds is good for the market economy.
    But here at Patek, one sits under a tree at the edge of a river and watches time pass by.

     

    A bezel which strongly distinguishes it from the other Calatravas

    The Clous de Paris bezel strongly distinguishes it from the other Calatravas – not a fakir carpet as macro photos may have you believe.

    On the contrary, the surface treatment allows the light to play about, contrasting with the polished surfaceof the middle and the lugs, accentuating the opening of the dial.

     

    The movement

    And behind, below the sapphire case-back, the 240 calibre, slimline (2,53 mm) motion made of a rareoff-centre micro rotor in 22-carat gold, 27 ruby, six bridge, Gyromax balance at 21600 vibrations per hour…

    A genuine luxury engine which has been driving Patek’s complications and perpetual dates certified by thePoinçon de Genève since 1977 : some kind of dependable, astounding and beautiful work we all take pleasure in.

    What to remember

    This 5120 would be the quintessence of Calatrava !
    More than the “entry level” Patek Philippe which might look too dull or too sober to some people…
    This classical watch, subtly different and driven by an immense calibre, is a true ray of genius on a Swiss night.

    Still this ray requires the ability to distinguish and appreciate it.
    In the end, it is a very selfish pleasure and handing it on to future generations is not as straightforward as it may seem, as many have other things on their minds at the moment. Nevertheless, one day their turn will come…and only then can we evaluate the advertising.

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