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WATCH REVIEW Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712G

Editor's opinion
79.5 / 100
If you think the two-handed and steel-cased Nautilus too sober, here is the test of a bolder configuration: the grey gold Patek Philippe 5712G with moon phases.
Straight to the Point

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712G

Ref.: 5712G
$28,600.00 US retail price November 15th, 2010
Pros
  • a unique design
  • the beauty of the movement and its gold micro-rotor
  • the very high-level finishing
Cons
  • a perfectible legibility
  • the comfort when wearing it, depending on the size of your wrist
Brand Patek Philippe
Model name
Nautilus 5712G
Reference
5712G
Case material
White gold 18 carats
Case diameter (without crown)
40 mm
Case diameter (crown included)
43,91 mm
Movement type
Automatic
Caliber
Patek 240 PS IRM C LU
Base Caliber
Manufacture
Functions
Date
Hour
Minute
Moon phases
Power reserve
Second
Crystal
Dual-face crystal with anti-reflective coating
Power reserve
48h
Transparent back
No
Lug width
25,32 mm
Length from lug to lug
44,20 mm
Case thickness
8,79 mm
Strap material
Alligator
Clasp type
Deployment clasp
Clasp material
White gold 18 carats
Total weight
140 grammes
Retail price USA at November 15th, 2010
$28,600.00
Comfort (/15) 12
Movement (/20) 15.5
Movement Optimisation / Garnishment (/5) 5
Ease of handling and adjustment (/5) 4
Movement control proceeded by the Manufacture / horlogical awards (/3) 3
Power reserve (/2) 1
Complications (/5) 2.5
Finishing (/20) 20
Dial finishing (/6) 6
Case finishing (/6) 6
Quality of garnishment / caseback engraving quality (/2) 2
Crystal quality (/4) 4
Clasp finishing (inner and extern) (/2) 2
Functionality (/20) 14
Diurnal legibility (/5) 5
Night legibility (/4) 3.5
Water resistance (/3) 0.5
Strap : ease of size adjustment + ease of substitution (/4) 1
Clasp : quality and safety (/4) 4
Additional items (/10) 5
Limited edition (/3) 0
Watch delivered with several straps (/2) 0
Quality of the watch box (/1) 1
Portability with shirtsleeves buttoned (/2) 2
Goodies included (/1) 1
Understandability of the brochure (/1) 1
Value for money (/15) 13
When to wear it ? For the yearly board of directors
Users opinion
82%
like this watch
Do you like this watch?

The “master’s” signature

The great Gerald Genta’s “pencil’s stroke” is immediately recognizable in the Nautilus, as he was the designer of a large amount of mythical watches of the 1970’s, that are still relevant 40 years later.

Such as a lot of his creations, the Nautilus was first born with only two hands, for a maximum of soberness.
The complications have only been introduced in 2005 with the 3712 steel reference.
Halted in 2006, this model reaches an astronomical quotation on the second-hand market.

The 3712 has been since replaced by the 5712 reference, available in steel, white gold or pink gold.

A strong personality

Recognisable among all, the original shape of the Nautilus’ case is not only ornamental: the lateral “ears” are used to fix the bezel, such as on a boat’s porthole.

And, at first glance, what can be considered as a very particularly designed case, very (too much?) 1970’s tagged, appears to be at second glance of an extreme elegance around the wrist.
The case’s steel work, alternating satiny and mirror finishing, is of very high-level quality.

The 240 calibre is also worth the trip.
Its finishing is of a great refinement, with notably hand-made chamfering.
But it is especially its micro-rotor, made of 22-carat gold, which will enthral the purists and the aesthetes.

It is indeed an ideal compromise between the beauty of a manual winding movement and the practical side of an automatic movement: the watch winds itself up “by itself” but an invading oscillating weight does not obstruct the view on the movement.

 

A unique dial

Another characteristic element of this Patek Philippe: its seeming disorganised dial.

Indeed, at the first glance, this dial can seem cacophonous for lack of balance in displaying the various data.
Power reserve between 10 and 11 o’clock, date and moon phases indications between 6 and 8 o’clock, even going beyond 6 o’clock, elbowing the seconds’ counter, positioned between 3 and 5 o’clock…

 

The 240 calibre is also worth the trip. But it is especially its micro-rotor, made of 22-carat gold, which will enthral the purists and the aesthetes.

It is actually one of the main assets of this watch: this seeming “disorder” confers it some spell and a very strong identity.

And here again, the finishing is exceptional: the horizontal charcoal grey guilloche work is completed by a “sun satiny” treatment that allows amazing plays of lights.
One can spend hours admiring the reflections…

THE MOST SOUGHT-AFTER BRANDS

The functionality

A watch being above all conceived to be worn, how about that once it is around the wrist?

The comfort is correct without being optimum: the quite salient crown can irritate the upper part of the wrist.

The night-time legibility is not perfect: the hands’ and markers’ brightness being a little bit weak after a few hours.

And the 60m-limited waterproofness will strongly reduce the aquatic use….
Nevertheless, no regrets: the alligator strap is anyway too beautiful to be wet!

What to remember

This Nautilus is really an exception in the Patek Philippe‘s range: it succeeds in adding to the homemade excellence the dash of fantasy and poetry that can sometimes lack to the other productions of the brand.
It is an aesthete’s watch. Wearing it provides a rare pleasure, for which one will be ready to make compromise on the functionality….

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