Milus TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC
| Brand | Milus |
| Model name | TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC |
| Reference | TIRI-SP01 |
| Case material | Steel with DLC coating |
| Case diameter (without crown) | 45 mm |
| Case diameter (crown included) | 48.52 mm |
| Movement type | Automatic |
| Caliber | ETA + Milus 3838 module |
| Base Caliber | ETA |
| Functions | Date Hour Minute Three retrograding seconds |
| Crystal | Camberred sapphire crystal |
| Power reserve | 42h |
| Transparent back | Yes |
| Lug width | 22.96 mm |
| Length from lug to lug | 53.70 mm |
| Case thickness | 14.03 mm |
| Clasp type | Pin buckle |
| Clasp material | Steel with DLC coating |
| Total weight | 105 grams |
| Retail price USA at January 3rd, 2011 | $8,900.00 |
| Comfort (/15) | 11 |
| Movement (/20) | 9 |
| Movement Optimisation / Garnishment (/5) | 2 |
| Ease of handling and adjustment (/5) | 4 |
| Movement control proceeded by the Manufacture / horlogical awards (/3) | 0 |
| Power reserve (/2) | 1 |
| Complications (/5) | 2 |
| Finishing (/20) | 13 |
| Dial finishing (/6) | 5 |
| Case finishing (/6) | 4 |
| Quality of garnishment / caseback engraving quality (/2) | 1 |
| Crystal quality (/4) | 2 |
| Clasp finishing (inner and extern) (/2) | 1 |
| Functionality (/20) | 12 |
| Diurnal legibility (/5) | 4 |
| Night legibility (/4) | 3 |
| Water resistance (/3) | 0 |
| Strap : ease of size adjustment + ease of substitution (/4) | 2 |
| Clasp : quality and safety (/4) | 3 |
| Additional items (/10) | 3 |
| Limited edition (/3) | 0 |
| Watch delivered with several straps (/2) | 0 |
| Quality of the watch box (/1) | 1 |
| Portability with shirtsleeves buttoned (/2) | 1 |
| Goodies included (/1) | 0 |
| Understandability of the brochure (/1) | 1 |
| Value for money (/15) | 11 |
| When to wear it ? | When wearing Milus cufflinks! |
Overall view
At first sight, we immediately understand that there are good reasons for the elaborate name of this timepiece: Milus TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC.
It fits the facts indeed: the eye drifts away in a network of hands and a collection of bridges placed side by side in a multileveled dial!
Then, slowly, this seemingly chaotic universe starts making sense: lavishly sized indexes mark and align the periphery, while the hours and minutes hands rule the foreground.
But there’s one mysterious realm yet to be uncovered: the seconds…
A very specific display of the seconds
It’s in the second’s display that the full specificity of this watch unveils itself, with the triple retrograde seconds function.
Each of the seconds’ dedicated hands shows 20 seconds in succession, and then jumps back to its starting point, handing it over to the next one.
This slow ballet is played on several layers as the dial, opening on various levels, shows the mechanical process at work: each hand’s cam and spiral spring action is now revealed.
Full-depth dial
The materials’ choice in colors emphasizes this feeling of depth: black for the case bottom carbon fiber and the retrograde area’s DLC, steel for the bridges and hands, plus blue for screws and red for rubies.
Black carbon fiber is also used on the bezel, circling the domed sapphire crystal.
This rather unusual process brings out a lights-oriented display, smoothening the hardness of the case’s matte black DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating.
Both curves of the middle and of the case’s lugs, give birth to an outline one could easily qualify as ‘bio-design’, with its supple, almost animal shapes, as opposed to the dial’s harshness and straight lines.
The strap, narrowly matching the inter-lugs space, adds to this seeming flexibility dimension.
There’s an annoying element though: the clasp’s rigidity, which makes this watch uneasy to wear on a small wrist.
Against all indications, this strap is not made of carbon fiber. It’s veal leather: telling them apart is actually very difficult!
The crown is surrounded by a mounted protuberance, fixed with two screws. Is it for protection? Or shape extension maybe?
As this Milus has already been gifted with an overgenerous diameter (45mm, without the crown), this excrescence feels quite useless, especially when there’s another, similar one on the other side of the case… bearing no obvious technical reason.
On the movement side
The triple retrograde seconds module, named Milus 3838, has been added to the ETA automatic calibre, probably a 2892.
This firm and certified mechanical basis shall pull the complication efficiently, along with torque and steadiness.
However, it cannot be viewed through the crystal case while in action, because of it showing on the dial side.
The oscillating weight in the form of the Milus logo, and the screws, have been blued for more aesthetics.
What to remember
One cannot help being moved by the amazingly strong identity the Milus TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC conveys.
It will answer every need a powerful watch-making addict can ask for, as he’ll probably be happily satisfied with the triple hand-fitting, the DLC and carbon fiber manufacturing, and the bionic case of this new version of the TIRION.
Pros:
- playful display of the seconds
- powerful design, that unites shape, materials and complication
Cons:
- stiffness of the case/strap pair, limiting its use to wider wrists
- slow date change
Additional information:
- tester’s wrist size = 17,5cm
